American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Huascarán. Fourteen expeditions with 71 climbers attempted Huascarán in 1974, of which 47 reached either the south or north summit. Katra, Milne and Andrews’ second ascent of the ANZUS route of the east face is covered in Katra’s article. Italians Danilo Saettone, Costantino Piazzo, Tullio Vidoni and Emilio Detomasi made a fine new route, the northwest ridge of Huascarán Norte. Members of the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh, Iacovino, Patsiga, Bogel, Kobus, Max and Hoffman on July 11 and Colucci, Westfall and Niedra on July 13, a group from the Freelance Alpine Research Team and seven Mexicans climbed the normal route of Huascarán Norte. Three Germans, Americans Seibel, Dunn, Cager and Romano, and four Swiss (see below) climbed Huascarán Sur by the normal route. Americans Mike Rourke and Curry Slaymaker, German Horst Ullrich and Australian Murray Johns climbed Huascarán Sur on September 10 and Huascarán Norte on September 12. One fatality occurred when the American Ted Limp slipped and fell. His companion, Gail Wilts, survived the fall.

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