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North America, Greenland, Kangersuneq Fjord

Kangersuneq Fjord, South Greenland. Kap Farvel (Cape Farewell) is known for its loose rock and unpredictable weather. On the first score, we encountered the same difficulties as previous expeditions; on the second, we profited from the best weather in memory. The Cambridge Southern Greenland Expedition was led by Richard Hoare; Gregory Moseley was deputy leader. Other members included Ineke Moseley, Phillipa Hoare, David and Susan Cornell, Tim Hurrell, Gordon Hickson and Jeffrey Moeller. We left Glasgow for Narsurssuuaq on July 18, returning September 2. Our first Base Camp was north of Augpilatog, at the head of Kangersuneq Fjord and near the site of an ancient Norse settlement. The highest peak in the area was P 2100m. Its west face was vertical, but D. Cornell and Hurrell discovered a straight snow route to its summit along the gradually sloping southeast ridge. A col directly above Base Camp allowed the only access into two previously unexplored valleys approaching Lindenows Fjord. Hickson and I made five first ascents here: P 1240m, P 1060m, P 1160m, P 1590m, P 1660m. (Grades II-IV). At the same time Moseley and Hoare climbed P 1500m, P 1480 m, P 1580m, P 1685m, all first ascents, as well as an unmarked peak east of P 1791m. Hoping to find better rock conditions, we switched efforts to a more southerly area across from the mouth of Kangersuneq Fjord, where there appeared to be a promising horseshoe of peaks. Unfortunately the rock was again loose and dangerous, although two first ascents were made of peaks offering easy scrambles (P 1380m and P 1100m). During the last two weeks of August, we moved Base Camp to the island of Pamiagdluk, just south of Augpilatog. The granite here was considerably better than what we had previously encountered; the most technically difficult rock ascent of the expedition was made of P 1300m by Hoare and Moseley. The peak presented 1200 feet of rock which they climbed in two pushes. (Grade VI, A2). The expedition made 20 first ascents; most of the better climbing entailed mixed snow and ice routes. Without doubt this area should continue to attract climbers, although those devoted to high-standard rock routes need be extremely cautious and willing to suffer that ultimate disappointment of retreating off a route even when the summit is within reach.

Jeffrey Moeller, Appalachian Mountain Club and Cambridge University Mountaineering Club