American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount MacDonald, Little Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Mount MacDonald, Little Face. My cousin Alan Dane Waterman and I made a new route on the Little (east) Face of Mount MacDonald, some five miles east of Rogers Pass, which finished on a shoulder of the mountain (climbed a day later to the summit by Dane under extenuating circumstances). The steep route took four days and three bivouacs, two in the rain and one without water. We used many pitons, with difficulties up to A3 (including one “waterfall” pitch) and F8. The rock was generally good, quartzite with good cracks. There were no signs of previous parties. NCCS V, F8, A3. We also made a new route on the north face of Mount Stanley of 14 pitches, with some rock but mostly snow.

John Waterman

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