Split Peak, North Face. The north face of the previously unclimbed east summit of Split Peak (9610 feet) was climbed by Jim States and me during the Memorial Day holiday. We approached from the north by canoe, bushwhack and knee-deep snow to camp at timberline below the northwest ridge. An all-night deluge failed to dampen our spirits and we were on the ridge by 6:30 A.M. in intermittent storm. We roped up for several leads that contained short, difficult sections of rock covered by fresh and older sugar snow. These conditions prevailed throughout the climb. Upon reaching the north face, we enjoyed six long leads of steep, but unconsolidated snow, which ended at a band of steep rotten rock. Difficult climbing over mixed ground followed. Five leads, basically unprotected over dangerous terrain, brought us to the top at seven P.M. with darkness in pursuit, we descended the 2000-foot south couloir on excellent snow. Regaining camp was a new ball game with two high ridges and several valleys to cross in the dark. Poor protection over rotten rock covered with sugar snow and verglas made the climb nerve-racking. NCCS IV, F7.

John Roskelley