North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Robson, First Attempted Solo Ascent of North Face, Second Solo Ascent of Kain Face
Mount Robson, First Attempted Solo Ascent of North Face, Second Solo Ascent of Kain Face. On August 8 I climbed from Berg Lake via the rock between the Mist and Tumbling Glaciers to a tent placed previously with the help of friends underneath the north face. The next morning at three A.M. I started climbing the face in unsettled windy weather. The wind speed increased with every 145-foot pitch which was done by placing a snow fluke at each end and a short picket at mid-pitch in iced snow. At 8:20 A.M. after leading the seventh pitch I saw no change in the wind which would have prevented a complete ascent and began to return. One-third of the face was beneath me. I reached the schrund at the bottom of the face shortly after twelve having done 14 leads and 38 pitches. On August 10 I traversed the Helmut-Robson Col under cloudy skies with lighting so flat that the covered crevasses were barely discernible. I did three roped pitches, including one of water-ice, and the collapse of a snow bridge led to a fall into a schrund. The next morning at 3:20 A.M. I began without the rope climbing under the hanging glacier the water-ice of the Kain Face, which turned into iced snow higher up. Topping out about six, I proceeded to the summit which was reached at 7:30 A.M. in wintery, but calm weather. Returning to the bottom of the face about ten, I found myself in a white-out with my steps obliterated by a light snow. A brief clearing came about noon which allowed me to reach my bivouac on the Dome. On August 12 I returned to Berg Lake via the Robson Glacier.
Dean Smith