American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Maxwell and Peaks above the Kaskawulsh Basin

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Mount Maxwell and Peaks above the Kaskawulsh Basin. The second small expedition of the Paris Section of the French Alpine Club took place from July 30 to August 24. We were Jean Bernard Givet, Jacques Deyme, Philippe Montufet, Steve and Pierre Chanel, Maurice Nonde, Raymond Ponsonnet, Jacques Severnet, Monique Larmoyer, Andrée Cot, Marie-Hélène Laplace, Jean Luc Sitter, François de Montbeillart, Jean Luc Maurin, Jean Paul Duval and I. With exceptionally fine weather, the 16 climbers reached seven summits above the South Arm and Easter glaciers. The most difficult was a rock peak of about 9850 feet, east of where the South Arm and the Easter glaciers join. It was climbed on August 13 by Givet, Deyme, Severnet, Cot and Ponsonnet. Another first ascent was of the big peak (c. 10,100 feet) west of Kaskawulsh Mountain. The whole party climbed this on August 9 from the east and descended a couloir going down to the southeast. On August 14 we made the second ascent of Mount Stephen (c. 10,100 feet) at the head of the Easter Glacier. All but S. and P. Chanel and Sevrenet reached the top. The whole party climbed the 9000-foot peak on the right bank of the Easter Glacier on August 12 by its north ridge. On August 16 Mount Maxwell (c. 10,300 feet) was climbed by Laplace, Montufet, P. and S. Chanel, Sitter, Nonde, de Montbeillard, Ponsonnet, Maurin, Larmoyer, Duval and me. We found the cairn on top. The slopes were bad with ice on the rocks. Givet, Cot, Deyme and Severnet that same day climbed the c. 9675-foot peak to the east, which dominates the vast glacial plateau to the north. Finally on August 17, Givet, Cot, Ponsonnet and Montufet climbed the north ridge of the north summit of Kaskawulsh Mountain (c. 10,200 feet), which we had climbed the year before.

Jacques Rouillard, Club Alpin Français

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