American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, Second Ascent of HubSew Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Mount Logan, Second Ascent of HubSew Ridge. Originally we thought our route unclimbed, but reading after the climb showed that Vin Hoeman and Will Harrison had ascended this ridge. Adam Kerner, Bob Newman, Roger Robinson, Geraldine Grady, Rick Albano, Bill Andrews, Chris Lovgren and I walked in the 100 miles via Slims River in eight days. We followed a side spur to reach 10,000 feet on the HubSew ridge, starting on June 29. Our first objective, derived from previous Mount McKinley environmental projects, was to leave the route completely in the natural state by disposing of all litter in crevasses and removing all fixed line, anchors, wands, etc. Although we used 4000 feet of fixed line on the ascent to safeguard climbers ferrying loads, when a section was climbed for the last time, the last rope team carried lighter loads, removed the anchors and coiled the line. Three or four short but interesting ice walls were climbed below 13,000 feet. From 15,000 feet, where we joined the east-ridge route, the weather worsened and igloos were necessary on the plateau at 16,000 feet on the east side of the east peak. After two days when we were tied down by high winds, on July 18 the whole party reached the summit of Mount Logan. Newman, Robinson, Albano and I also ascended the east peak. During the descent of the east ridge, litter from expeditions dating to 1953 was removed. We were flown out by helicopter on July 26.

Jeff Elphinston, University of Oregon Outdoors Program

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