American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Mount Logan. From June 2 to 9 the 1974 Mount Logan High Altitude Physiology Study (HAPS) Project Support Team climbed the standard King Col route to the Logan High Camp at 17,600 feet. We consisted of Jürg and Liz Hofer, leaders, Uldis Auders, Chip Aquadro, Rob Daigle, Dennis Jahnigen, Herb Wiedemann and me. The following people made ascents of the West Peak: Daigle, Jahnigen, Marshall on June 22; Auders, Aquadro, Wiedemann on June 24; Gerry Holdsworth, Ed Horton on July 28. At midnight of June 21 Daigle, Jahnigen and I climbed the c. 19,000-foot prominence, the first west of and a third of a mile from the West Peak. The peaks around the Logan High Plateau, North, Northwest, AINA and Prospectors Peak, saw several ascents by HAPS members, including a new snow and ice route directly up the north face of Prospectors Peak (c. 18,200 feet) on July 23. On June 28 Jahnigen and I under poor conditions climbed the middle east buttress of Prospectors Peak, NCCS II, F5. We finished all the rock but traversed off two snow pitches from the summit because of Jahnigen’s 120-foot fall; we both got frostbitten.

P. S. Marshall, Three Corner Round

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