American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, New Routes in Peak Lake Cirque, Upper Green River

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

New Routes in Peak Lake Cirque, Upper Green River. Stan Hilbert accompanied me on these climbs. Sulphur Peak, North Face: The route followed the prominent couloir leading to a chimney/crack line until 150 feet below a big roof in the crack where an ascending traverse afforded access to a rib which we climbed for a pitch. We pendulumed west into a groove of loose blocks, which we climbed to a small overhang. A delicate slab pitch led to an easy gully and the summit. In the chimney/crack verglas forced us to use aid in places. August 8; 1600 feet; 12 hours. NCCS F7, Al. Ladd Peak, North Couloir: On August 10 we approached from upper Peak Lake, traversing around the west side of Mount Whitecap and crossing Stone Hammer Pass. We traversed snow and rock on Ladd to its north side. The snow and ice couloir rises 2000 feet from the Twin Lakes at the foot of the north face. There was some rockfall and avalanche danger. NCCS II; 3 hours. Split Mountain, South Face: The western peak of Split Mountain presents a complex south face. At its western end are three obvious crack systems which split the lower face. On August 11 we followed the middle system for two pitches (F6) and then took an easier diagonal line of weakness to the right across the face for four or five pitches to gain the arête which overlooks the couloir which splits the mountain. We climbed the arête on the right by an easy crack and groove system to the west ridge. We then scrambled 200 feet to the summit. NCCS I, F6; 3 hours. Mount Buchtel, Southwest and Southeast Ridges. On August 7 we climbed from the lake up the southwest ridge to a prominent yellow gendarme and a narrow ridge. We continued up to join the southeast ridge around 12,800 feet and followed this to the summit. A rusty can contained the information that Curt Fettner and William Clemons climbed the north face on September 18, 1937 from Peak Lake! The east face and north ridge also had ascents recorded in the can. This information is not found in Bonney’s guidebook.

William March, Idaho State University Outdoor Program

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