North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Middle Teton, Northeast Face

Publication Year: 1975.

Middle Teton, Northeast Face. A new route on this face, involving some 500 feet of roped climbing, was made by Roger Briggs and Art Higbee on July 8. Three hundred feet of snow and easy rock from the Lower Saddle took them to a large ledge about 70 feet below an obvious right-facing dihedral. Three full pitches, all involving F8 and F9 climbing, much of it in cracks, led to the base of the final overhanging corner. Climbing this corner required an F10 effort. Above they reached easier slabs and snow which led to the summit. The entire climb was well- protected and they used only nuts, although ice axes were required for the approach.