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North America, United States, Idaho, Old Mount Hyndman, Northeast Face, Pioneer Mountains

Old Mount Hyndman, Northeast Face, Pioneer Mountains. On September 28 Bill March, Nobuyuki Fujita, Jerry Leitch and I made the first ascent of the northeast face of Old Mount Hyndman. From camp at the head of Wildhorse Creek, we ascended an obvious southeast-slanting ice and snow couloir. Averaging 45° to 50°, it rose for 900 feet where a pitch of 60° was found. Above we surmounted a short pitch of steep rock. From the top of the couloir we continued up and north for 1200 feet to a section of steep, loose rock 150 feet below and north of the summit. Here we roped again and climbed to the summit. The descent consisted of four rappels. On the second a car-sized rock was dislodged, which severed both the ropes on which I was descending.

Harrison S. Hilbert, Idaho State University Outdoors Program