The Juggernaut, Dihedral Route. This route follows the only prominent open-book on the face climbed and named by Beckey in 1973 above Crown Lake, near Rock Island Pass. Vern Clevenger, Bill Dougherty, Mike Farrell and I climbed this difficult 4-pitch route in half a day. The first lead follows a chimney, a slot, then a short F10 lieback. Higher, an alternative arises between a scary F8 traverse to the outside of the dihedral or a scarier F10 overhanging dihedral. I led the former and Clevenger, the latter. The final pitch is moderate climbing on a broken, open headwall just right of the overhangs at the top of the dihedral. NCCS III, F10.
Galen A. Rowell