North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Voodoo Dome, Southeast Face, The Skull

Publication Year: 1975.

Voodoo Dome, Southeast Face, The Skull. As one looks at the southeast face of this broad monolith the most apparent feature is a gigantic arch which begins at tree level and rises 400 feet to its zenith. Gregory Cloutier and I chose to make a clean ascent of the dihedral formed by the arch roof and back wall. A stimulating three pitches of aid and five pitches of free climbing required only 8 pin placements. The climb begins with a mildly difficult lead which is mixed aid (A2) and free (F8) and ends on a good belay ledge. The second pitch, and probably the crux aid pitch, is a long semi-overhanging lead (A3) ending in a hanging belay. The third pitch is a short lead along an expanding flake up to a cavity just a few feet from the opening in the roof. A hand jam and an exciting move lead through a narrow bottomless chimney to easier climbing and a good belay area. A difficult overhang and fast enjoyable climbing ends at the sandy ledges on the Pea Soup route. The remainder of the climb follows this route to the summit and its exciting final lead. NCCS IV or V, F8, A3.

Charles Haas, Unaffiliated