American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Balloon Dome

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Balloon Dome. After an abortive attempt in 1971 to find Balloon Dome, I returned in 1974 with the indefatigable Black brothers, Dave and Jim. During a four-day visit we climbed three new routes. West Face: the wall that faces Squaw Dome is dominated by an obvious, left-facing open-book. To our disappointment, the greater part of the book required aid. Seven pitches. NCCS IV, F9, A3. Boko-Maru: immediately left of a spectacular pillar on the northeast face is a smooth wall broken only by a sinuous dike which winds up and left. Two pitches led to the base of the dike and seven more of superlative climbing followed it to the summit. Nine bolts were placed. NCCS III, F9. East Face: we climbed the first chimney system to the left of the above- mentioned route for two pitches and then traversed right on challenging face climbing to a crack which we followed to the summit. Eight pitches. NCCS III, F9.

Michael Graber, Buff Mountaineers

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