American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Drum, Wrangell Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Mount Drum, Wrangell Mountains. Our group consisting of Jim Bergdahl, J.R. Patee, Carl Tobin and me flew from Glennallen airport to a tiny landing strip on the Sanford River directly north of Mount Drum (12,010 feet) on August 25. We hiked up a small creek and on the second day reached the edge of the glacier which descends the north face of the mountain, directly adjacent to the steep northeast face. Our first camp on the mountain was at 7100 feet on this glacier. After a 36-hour storm, we climbed higher back and forth up the glacier and located a very conveniently bridged-over crevasse at 8500 feet, in which we took shelter from the unrelenting winds. The next day we climbed to the summit in clear but windy conditions, following the north glacier to a col at 10,000 feet between the north and northeast faces. From here we climbed a steep ice ramp which led up to the upper slopes, where we threaded our way between séracs and crevasses to the summit ridge. Just below the summit, a crevasse forced a traverse out onto the south face, which drops 6000 feet to the Nadina Glacier.

Andrew Reynolds, Unaffiliated

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