American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks Above Tazlina Glacier, Chugach Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Peaks Above Tazlina Glacier, Chugach Mountains. Dr. Harry Walker, Steve Little, Jon Fisher and I as leader climbed at the head of the Tazlina Glacier near its divide with the east branch of the Columbia Glacier during June. We attempted Lindita Peak (7910 feet) by its north ridge, which was alternately corniced or knifed-edged. About 400 feet from the summit, a break in the ridge with a giant summit cornice stopped us for lack of rappel pickets or protection on the steep soft-snow face. The “Dorothita” summit of “Stegosaurus” (7410 feet) was climbed for the first time by the southwest ridge. The rock was terribly frost- shattered. Lindita Peak and “Stegosaurus” are the two most prominent peaks at the head of the Tazlina as seen from the Glenn Highway. Second ascents of “Rachael Carson” (7075 feet) and “Freuchen” (6965 feet) were made on June 9 and 14; the first ascents had been made by my party in 1971. We encountered so many snow and wind storms that little time could be devoted to climbing.

Lawrence Nielson

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