Mount Dan Beard, South Face. In May Peter Boardman and I climbed in the Ruth Amphitheatre. On May 9 we repeated Washburn’s and Fisher’s route on Mount Dickey (9545 feet) via Pittock Pass. On May 17, 18 and 19 we ascended the south face of Mount Dan Beard (10,260 feet). Leaving our skis on the small glacier embraced by the south and southwest ridges flanking the face, we climbed a 1000-foot couloir and traversed to a col on the right for a four A.M. breakfast. Traverses and gullies of mixed climbing led to a central depression on the face. A 400-foot overhanging headwall was avoided on the right, where two steep ice pitches gave access to the summit dome. As snow started to fall and the wind rise, we built an igloo on the summit to rest from 23 hours’ effort. We descended the route in 14 hours on the 19th, abseiling and wallowing in baking snow. Conditions were a little dangerous in descent. The 4500-foot climb was done alpine-style in good weather.

Roger O’Donovan, Scottish Sports Council