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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Foraker, Southeast Ridge

Mount Foraker, Southeast Ridge. In mid-June Joe Davidson, Bob Fries, Jim Given, Mark Greenfield, Pippo Lionni, Eric Morgan, Frank Uher and I contemplated one of the south ridges of Mount Foraker from Base Camp in its southeast cirque. This more easterly of the two south ridges was unclimbed. The one ascended by Bleser, Bertulis, Baer and Williamson lies farther west. The ridge is guarded at the bottom by a 2000-foot rock and ice pinnacle. The most apparent route was its north spur, a snow ridge to 8500 feet, a few rock pitches and the balance steep fluting. Avalanche dangers proved too great. An approach to the pinnacle from the south was equally dangerous and not without technical difficulties. We gave up the attempt and decided to try the southwest toe of the southeast ridge. This joins the 1963 route at 9500 feet. An Alaskan party had attempted this route in the winter of 1972 but ran out of steam at 13,400 feet. We placed camps at 8300, 9000, 11,500 and 13,300 feet. After a week of storm, we all climbed to the summit in a 14-hour climb, reaching the top on July 10. On July 14 Greenfield and I made the first ascent of P 8509, three miles south of the southeast ridge.

Peter Reagan, Unaffiliated