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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley

Mount McKinley. There were 27 successful expeditions to Mount McKinley, which put 145 people on the summit of the South Peak. There were two deaths. On May 27, the Japanese Yoshikazu Okada, while descending at about 11,000 feet on a fixed line with Jümars after a successful ascent of the Cassin route on the South Face, fell 800 feet when the line broke above him. On June 27 another Japanese, Tamo Hatakenaka, become ill from the altitude at 12,000 feet on the West Buttress. He died the next day. Since no autopsy was performed, it is the assumption that he contracted either pulmonary or cerebral edema. The first two Muldrow climbs were notable because of the use of dog teams for the first time in 25 years. Also the two women from Arizona, Gail McDonald and Joanna McComb, walked all the way in from Petersville, had one airdrop at the 7000-foot landing site and then did the Kahiltna-Muldrow traverse, while ascending both peaks and spending 8 or 10 days above 17,000 feet. They were the only ones to climb the North Peak. The ascents follow: Muldrow-Karstens Ridge Route: Sonny Linder, Steve Jones, Pat Condran, Bill Post on April 28; Thomas Griffiths, John Cooper, David and Alan Batten, Toby Wheeler, Brian Okonek on May 18; Jerry Hasfjord, Carl Fabiani, Tim Gage, Eric Simonson, Mike Reed, Pat Lathrop on July 14; Rick Pallister, Bea Van Horne, Frosty Claypool, James Cunningham, Gary Hermalyn, John Hamren on July 15; Peter Lewitt, Scott Stylos, Douglas Sheprow, Mark Friedman on July 29; West Buttress: Arnold McMillan, Tom Dyer on May 14; Gil Harder, Joe Hariskey, Laurence Bye, John Kalbrener, Joseph Rommel on May 18; Janez Aljancic, Joze Balant, Peter Soklic on May 19; Steve Passmore, Bill Brant on May 25; Sunny Elder, Jr., Steve Agee,

NOTE: All dates in this section refer to 1974 unless otherwise stated.

Charlie Gay on May 26; Laura Bunnel, Bill Babcock, Robin Bowen on May 27; Jakob Wyss, Hans-Peter Stettler, Peter Schlunegger, Rudolf Bhend, Albert Bohren, Gottfried Egger, Sepp Renner on May 26; Ray Genet, Marlene and David Titus, Dean Giftas, William LaFontaine, Michael Adler, David Saas, Dietrich Deppe, Ernst Wahl on May 29; Eberhard Hantsel, Arthur Allard, Joseph Alexander, Clyde Grover, Ray Dewey on May 31; Melinda McIlwaine, Bob Miller, Bob Allen, Rick Stoller, Greg Ballog, Leonard Ossorio, Robert Watkins, Ray Smith on May 29; Tomio Morita, Muneaki Yamane, Eishi Sate, Katuhiko Ando on June 17; Michel Fleuret, H. Staub, Remy Grandjean, Hans Tshui, Hans Ehrsam on June 24; Sheng-Der Jen, Fredrick Cohen, Lawrence Thackston, Walter Parriah, Phillip Erickson, Ray Genet on June 26; Jan Bagsik, Jerzy Sznytzer, Krysztof Tomaszewski (Polish) on June 27; Thomas McCullogh, Olaf Sööt, Juri Tint on July 2; Martin Currat, John Beyer, Jay Gingrich, Bill Mackin on July 3; Masaoki Urneeda, Tsuneaki Koyayashi, Shinzow Mishakawa, Yukio Nakajima on July 16; Dale Norton, Frank Mack, Dave Walker, Frank Gibney on July 16; Koiji Yamazaki, Furninori Furukawa, Atsumi Moriya, Koichi Utanabe, Shigeki Umetani on July 18; Sadao Moro, Kazuo Monaka, Takeo Idei, Masuo Noguchi, Akira Kumekawa, Shigeru Matsumoto on August 1; West Buttress-Muldrow Traverse: Günter Sturm on June 18; Dr. Ekkert Gun- delach, Dr. Lutz Freier, Erich Reismüller, Günter Sturm on June 20; Roger Habersatt on June 24; Sharon Crawford, Jim Hale on June 25; John McIlvenna Jr., William Lyford on June 26; Gail McDonald, Joanna McComb on July 2 (North Peak on July 10); Cassin Route on South Face: Takeshi Kulsota, Mikio Otsu, Toshimitsu Kosaku, Katsukiko Hirata, Yoshikazu Okada, Takashi Moringuchi, Seiji Sakamoto, Kenichi Midarikawa on May 24; Western Rim of South Face: Janusz Baranek, Adam Bilczewski, Henryk Furmanik, Jerzy Kalla, Jerzy Kukuczka, Adam Zyzak (Polish) on June 27; South Buttress: Robert Wilson, Michael Lancaster, Phillip Dean, Dwight West on July 16.

Bruce Wadlington, National Park Service