Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The year 1973 saw much activity by our members in the Wrangells and, of course, in the mountain ranges visible from Anchorage including the Chugach, Kenai, Talkeetna and western Alaska Ranges. With the aid of accommodating weather conditions and in spite of the short daylight hours and unpredictable snow conditions, first winter ascents were gained on peaks in the Chugach, the Kenai and the Talkeetnas. Expeditions involving club members were made to the Wrangells and to the western Alaska Range. Eearly in the year, one party which had set out to ski-tour around the McKinley-Foraker complex changed heart at some point and skied up the Kahiltna, reaching the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress of Denali before being beaten back by inclement weather. Mount Drum (12,010 feet) in the Wrangells saw two attempts this year, only one of which was successful. Significant first ascents were registered by club members in both the Chugach and the Talkeetnas in spite of the retreating borderline of virgin territory.

While the season has been most successful for the MCA, our members were not left unscratched. Fortunately, the worst damage sustained was a few broken bones by an unfortunate neophyte practicing selfarrest during a club-sponsored school. We have had worse years. This occurrence precipitated a searching re-evaluation of school safety procedures, which concluded that our safety standards were not deficient and that not all possible contingencies could or should be guarded against.

This year has seen the club’s environmental and political posture become more aggressive, a trend which has been manifest for a number of years, but a trend which is viewed with some sadness by most members. Our club has lost the innocence of its early years, and this is not without regret on our part.

Plans for the coming year include first winter attempts on significant peaks in the Trodrillos, the Chugach and the Talkeetnas.

With the incidence of climbing by “outside” groups on the increase, we would like to hear of all climbing in the mountain ranges local to Anchorage, so that the history of these ranges may remain complete. A short note to the club (Box 2037, Anchorage, Alaska 99510) detailing party members, peak climbed along with its location (elevation & township and range as specified on the 1:64,000 quads), date climbed and suggested names, would be greatly appreciated.

William A. Barnes, Jr., President