Alpine Club of Canada

Publication Year: 1974.

Alpine Club of Canada. The 1973 General Mountaineering Camp was held near Glacier Lake in Banff National Park. The three-week camp attracted 176 participants. A new concept which proved very successful was that of having the regular two-week camp preceded by a training week. This was a week devoted strictly to learning, with a high guide-to-client ratio. The Ape Lake area of the Monarch-Bentinck Group in the Coastal Ranges of B.C. was the site of the Alpine Climbing Camp. Twenty-seven people participated, climbing 19 peaks—the climbs included three first ascents and four new routes. For the first time this year the ski camp ran beyond one week. The two-week camp, which included 57 people, was held at the Wates-Gibson hut in the Tonquin/Eremite valleys. Enthusiasm at the camp was so high that plans for 1974 include three locations over a period of seven weeks.

The club sponsored an expedition to Mount St. Elias, located on the Alaska/Yukon border in July. The party carried out a reconnaissance of the untried South (Haydon) ridge, and attempted the 1947 Southwest route, but were forced back by weather and time, having reached the Haydon Col.

The Ottawa Section ran a successful expedition to the Sam Ford Fiord in the Clyde district of Baffin Island. This spectacular area provided the opportunity for expedition members to make over 25 first ascents.

Bill Putnam and a crew of workers undertook a general rehabilitation and expansion of the Fairy Meadow hut in the northern Selkirks.

The new clubhouse near Canmore has already seen much use by our members. It opened in May and has been found to be a very warm, attractive building. It is open year-round, and many members are finding it very useful during the winter season. A balcony and cabins are in future plans, to be built as funds become available.

The library, housed at the Archives of the Canadian Rockies in Banff, continues to be an excellent research tool. Many people use the fine collection to gather important historical information, or for planning their own trips and expeditions. The collection includes about 2200 volumes, a superb collection of journals from the major mountaineering clubs in the world, and 40 current periodicals. Enquiries are welcome and should be directed to the Archives of the Canadian Rockies, Box 160, Banff, Alberta. The clubhouse also has a fine reading library, which now has the added advantage of being accessible year-round.

The Conservation Committee is very active and is delving into general issues of conservation, having to do with the balance between encouraging mountaineering and the enjoyment of the mountains, and preserving the mountain wilderness. The major brief presented in 1973 was to the Environment Conservation Authority of Alberta at its public hearings on Land Use and Resource Development in the Eastern Slopes of the Rocky Mountains. The hearings presented to the club an excellent opportunity to consider the critical issues involved with the question of land use in Canada—issues in which the provincial and federal governments have shown increasing concern.

The ACC and AAC undertook the joint publishing of the new Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada—South, the first such cooperative venture by the two clubs.

The Canadian Alpine Journal continues to reach an interested audience. Sales of the current issue are good, and many back issues are available from the club office (Box 1026, Banff, Alberta). Moira Irvine has recently been appointed as the Editor of the Canadian Alpine Journal. Articles on new or exceptional ascents in Canada are welcome and should be sent to Moira, 1565 Haywood Avenue, West Vancouver, B.C.

Phyl Munday, the club’s Honorary President, received the honour of being appointed to the Order of Canada. She was invested at Government House in Ottawa on April 11. Phyl is well known for the early exploration of the Coast Range of British Columbia.

P. A. Boswell, Club Manager