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Asia, Afghanistan, Hindu Kush, Bandaka

Bandaka. From August 20 to 28 Ulrich Eberhardt and Gunther Henneman climbed the north ridge of Koh-e-Bandaka North (22,064 feet). On August 26 they completed the second ascent of this peak by this very difficult new route. From August 20 to 26 Norbert Menzel, Peter Förtsch, Hildegard Zilbauer and I were on the normal route of Koh-e-Bandaka, the west ridge. The first two had to turn back 1000 feet below the summit because of sickness, but Fräulein Zilbauer and I got to the top on August 24, making the 13th ascent. She was the first woman to reach the summit (22,450 feet). From August 29 and September 2 Menzel and Förtsch traversed P 6044 (19,830 feet), north of Bandaka. They made the first ascent of the south peak (c. 19,785 feet) and the second of the main (north) peak. Fräulein Zilbauer and I made the first ascent of the highest of the Iblar chain, P 5638 (18,498 feet) on September 1 and the second of Koh-e-Ka-Safed (20,315 feet).

Ulrich Kamm, Deutscher Alpenverein