American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afgan Frontier Area, Kohe Urgunt and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Kohe Urgunt and Other Peaks. The expedition of the Tegernsee section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) was composed of Erika and Hans Ertle, Peter and Hans Gloggner, Peter Hoffmann, Josef and Klaus Öckler, Gerlinde Schirmer and Dr. Volker Schwenkglens. Base Camp was at 14,750 feet near the head of the upper Urgunt Glacier (Yakhcha Urgunte-Bala). We made the following ascents*: P c. 19,025 feet (on Wala map 260) from east on July 25 by P. and H. Gloggner, K. Öckler; Kohe Avval (c. 19,025 feet; Wala 281) from camp at 17,725 feet on the “Krakow Plateau” via the east ridge on July 27 by Hoffmann, J. Öckler, on July 28 by K. Öckler, H. and E. Ertle, on July 29 by Schirmer, Schwenkglens; P 5700 (18,701 feet, Wala 291) via south ridge on July 29 by P. and H. Gloggner; P 6130 (20,112 feet; high point on ridge northwest of Kohe Urgunt) from east on July 31 by P. and H. Gloggner; Kohe Tez (23,015 feet; Wala 268) from camps at 16,750, 19,000 and 21,000 feet via west ridge on August 1 by J. and K. Öckler and on August 4 by Schwenkglens, H. and E. Ertle; Kohe Sha (22,704 feet; Wala 265) from Camp IV at 21,150 feet via east ridge on August 5 by K. Öckler, P. and H. Gloggner and on to Camp V at 22,000 feet; Kohe Urgunt (23,091 feet; Wala 258) from Camp V via east ridge on August 6 by P. and H. Gloggner; Shoghordok Zom (22,435 feet; Wala 267) from Camp III from north on August 7 by Schirmer, J. Öckler.

Hans Ertle, Deutscher Alpenverein

* It appears that none of these were first ascents but the traverse from Kohe Sha to Kohe Urgunt is a new route.—Editor.

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