Asia, Pakistani-Afgan Frontier Area, Peaks in Jurm Valley Wakhan

Publication Year: 1974.

Peaks in Jurm Valley, Wakhan. The expedition of the Italian Alpine Club’s Padua section was composed of Paolo Lion, Professor Alfredo Dal Santo, Dr. Ugo Quintily, Vittorio Lazzarino, Dr. Elide Veronese and me as leader. Base Camp was set up at 14,000 feet in the Jurm valley. All climbs were first ascents. We made the following climbs: Kohe Past (5400 meters, 17,717 feet) via north slope from a 16,400-foot camp on July 22 by Lazzarino, Lion; Kohe Dur (5520 meters, 18,111 feet) via north slope from the same camp on July 29 by Dal Santo and me; Kohe Chard (5350 meters, 17,553 feet) via south slope on July 24 by Lazzarino, Quintily, Lion, Veronese; Kohe Sale Safid (5470 meters, 17,946 feet) via east slope on July 27 by Dal Santo, Quintily; Kohe Stara (5540 meters, 18,176 feet) via north slope on August 1 by Lion and me; Kohe Jurm II and I (5980 and 6000 meters, 19,620 and 19,685 feet) via north and northwest slopes respectively on August 1 by Lazzarino, Dal Santo; Kohe Sauze (5510 meters, 18,078 feet) via northeast slope on August 3 by all Italians and an Afghan porter; Kohe Durang (5300 meters, 17,389 feet) via southwest slope on August 4 by Lazzarino and the Afghan interpreter Bashir.

Lino Bortolami, Club Alpino ltaliano