American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afgan Frontier Area, Langar Group, Sar Shkhawr Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Langar Group, Sar Shkhawr Valley. The Silesian Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Jan Weigel and composed of A. Bara, Z. Burczak, W. Betlejewski, Z. Bojarski, T. Dyczkowski, M. Kulak, M. Kuras, F. Köhler, K. Kwiatkowski, J. Majchrowicz, K. Opyrchal, A. Pankow, A. Popowicz, J. Sienczak, T. Marek, J. Wiesner, and Zitzman. They climbed in the Darrah-e-Khenjan in the Salang region in the western Hindu Kush from July 24 to August 5, including Kohe Hafftanor (14,600 feet) and P 4790 (15,715 feet). They were in the Sar Shkhawr or Langar valley from August 11 to September 19. Base Camp was next to the glacier at 13,450 feet. They made the following ascents: Langutai Barfi (22,398 feet; Wala Peak 179) up rock gullies to Camp I in the col, up the ice face to the northwest ridge and Camp II, up the ice ridge to the summit, by Kulak, Kuras on August 23 and by Bara, Dyczkowski, Majchrowicz, Popowicz on August 25; Shah Dhar (21,490 feet*; Wala Peak 243) up north ridge with ice and two rock pitches, big cornices, nieves penitentes, a long way, by Köhler, Opyrchal, Sienczak on August 25; Langar Zom, Main Peak (23,196 feet; Wala Peak 190) by Kuras and Popowicz on September 10 and by Burczak, Köhler, Pankow, Weigel on September 15; Langar Zom, South Peak (22,474 feet; Wala Peak 191) by Dyczkowski, Sienczak on September 10, Langar Zom, Southeast Peak or Hind (23,166 feet; Wala Peak 192) by Kwiatkowski, Majchrowicz on September 13; up side glacier and rock couloir from south to Camp I in the col, up hanging glacier to Camp II to summit of Wala Peak 240 (20,243 feet) and over north ridge to glacier basin.

Jerzy Wala, Klub Wysokogórski, Poland

*On Ing. Wala’s excellent map, Shah Dhar is given as only 6122 meters or 20,085 feet.

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