Asia, Pakistani-Afgan Frontier Area, Pegish Zom I and Other Peaks

Publication Year: 1974.

Pegish Zom I and Other Peaks. Our expedition, organized by the Bologna section of the Italian Alpine Club consisted of Dr. Achille Poluzzi, Gilberto Bertolani, Giovanni Calza, Benito Modoni, Alziro Molin, Guerrino Sacchin, Nando Stagni, Gian Carlo Zuffa and me as leader. We had hoped to climb in the Sar Shakhaur valley. After difficulties with porters over wages at Sar Shakhaur, we decided to go to the village of Pegish and from there to the Jurm valley to complete the exploration started by the Padua expedition in 1972. We were favored by wonderful weather. After a two-day stop at Base Camp to acclimate, on June 14 Molin, Bertolani, Stagni and Zuffa climbed Chatral (Wala Peak 293; 18,209 feet). On the same day Sacchin, Poluzzi and Modoni reached Kohe Shal-e-Safid (“White Coat”; Wala Peak 286; 17,881 feet), a second ascent. On July 16 Molin, Calza, Poluzzi, Sacchin and I climbed Kohe Khanen (“Woman Peak”; Wala Peak 293 B; 17,454 feet). We ascended a very steep couloir with nieves penitentes; the final crest was of rotten rock. On July 17 Stagni and Zuffa climbed Pegish Jurm (Wala Peak 294 A; 19,948 feet), just south of Pegish Zom I but separated from it by a crevasse which was impossible to cross this year. They climbed it on rock and penitentes in two days with an intermediate camp at 15,900 feet. On July 21 Sacchin, Bertolani, Poluzzi and I completed the first Italian ascent of Pegish Zom I (Wala Peak 294; 20,568 feet) by a new route. This took three days from Base Camp with camps at 15,900 and 16,750 feet. Also on July 21, Calza and Zuffa climbed Kohe Jam- horiat (“Peak of the Republic”; Wala Peak 295; 19,590 feet). On July 23 Stagni climbed Kohe Shal-e-Safid, Kohe Solhtalab (“Peace Peak”; Wala Peak 286 A; 17,815 feet), a first ascent and Kohe Bachai Solh Safid (“Daughter of Joy Peak”; Wala Peak 286 B; 17,782 feet). On July 25 Poluzzi and Zuffa ascended Kohe Asadi (“Liberty Peak”; Wala Peak 287 A; 17,881 feet), a first ascent, while Modoni and Stagni reached the top of Kohe Jurm (Wala Peak 282; 19,685 feet), a second. With our expedition, there remains unclimbed in the Jurm valley only Wala Peak 296, which would be better climbed from the Pegish valley because of rockfall from the Jurm.

Arturo Bergamaschi, Club Alpino Italiano