American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afgan Frontier Area, Kohe Keshnikhan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Kohe Keshnikhan. The members of our expedition were Ulrike Boltz, Bernd Brügge, Claus Dittmers, Heiko Irmisch, Frank John, Martin and Ulrich Roeder and I as leader. Base Camp was in the Keshnikhan valley at 13,775 feet. We climbed Kohe Tokhan (16,995 feet) by its northeast side on August 14. The peak lies northwest of Koh-e-Keshnikhan. Because of bad snow and ice conditions we had to give up our plan to traverse Kohe Keshnikhan and decided to repeat the ascent of its west ridge. Camp I was set up behind Koh-e-Tokhan. We continued up the northern spur which got us onto the west ridge, where we placed Camp II at 19,550 feet. A summit attempt failed in bad weather at 20,850 feet. On August 16 Irmisch and I left Camp II late because of the weather and had to bivouac at 21,650 feet at about 0° F. We got to the summit at nine A.M. on the 17th and were back in Base Camp two days later. Unfortunately our expedition had to be given up earlier than we had hoped because of two serious illnesses.

Günter Schulz, Hamburg Section, Deutscher Alpenverein

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