American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afgan Frontier Area, Kohe Keshnikhan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Kohe Keshnikhan. The Southwest German Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Karl Fücks. They drove from Germany to Wark in the Wakhan and walked for two days up the Keshnikhan valley to Base Camp at 13,750 feet. For acclimatization, on July 21 Wolfgang König, Gerd Kohl and Winfried Eberhardt climbed Kohe Qalat (18,072 feet), a not difficult ascent which had been done several times before. To avoid a couloir threatened by rockfall, from Advanced Base at 16,000 feet they turned to a 2-500-foot-high ice face to reach the northeast ridge of Keshnikhan. König climbed the slope solo to 18,500 feet on July 25, fixing 1000 feet of rope. On July 26 Kohl and Winfried Petzolt climbed Kohe Tokhan (16,995 feet), while the start of a Keshnikan attempt was driven back by a massive avalanche. On July 27 König and Petzolt again headed for Keshnikhan. This attempt was again nearly turned back when Petzolt lost one of his crampons, but they decided to continue regardless. At about 20,000 feet they camped for the night. They reached the summit (22,162 feet) on July 28 at two P.M. despite soft, wet snow. The Germans believed they had made a new route, but the ridge had already been climbed once previously.

Information from Karl FÜcks, Deutscher Alpenverein

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