American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier Area, Noshaq, First Winter Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Noshaq, First Winter Ascent. A ten-man Polish team climbed Noshaq on February 13. Led by Andrzej Zawada, the other members were Tadeusz Piotrowski, Budny, Czechowki, Dmoch, Fijlkowski, Jedlinski, Koisar, Mierzejewski and Wozniak. Base Camp was established on January 21 at 11,225 feet; Camps I and II were at 13,775 and 15,600 feet. They operated fast because although the weather was good, the conditions were severe: strong winds and temperatures from —15° to —30° F. After a short period of bad weather they fixed ropes up a smooth section of ice and on January 27 established Camp III at 18,000 feet, where Camp I usually is in the summer. Next they fixed more ropes and after more bad weather established Camp IV on February 5 at 20,350 feet. They had to weight the tents with stones because of wind. The temperature was getting lower and lower. On February 12 Zawada, Piotrowski, Dmoch and Wozniak placed Camp V at 22,000 feet. The first two stayed to attack the peak the next day after nightfall because the wind was not so strong at night. On February 13 they set out at 11 A.M. After three and a half hours they reached the plateau where they found remains of old camps. They were horror-struck at the sight of a human hand sticking out of the ice. It was the body of a member of the 1971 Bulgarian expedition. At five P.M. they went on and at 11:30 reached the summit of Noshaq (24,580 feet). It was —53° F. After a short rest they returned to Camp V at 4:30 A.M., broke camp and descended to Budny and Jedlinski at Camp IV. By February 16 all members of the expedition were back in Base Camp.

Halina CiepliNska-Bojarska, Klub Wysokogorski, Poland

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