Tirich Mir Attempt. Bill Dunaway, Chuck Hall, Fritz Stammberger, Vern Read and I attempted the South Barum Glacier route followed by the successful Norwegian party in 1950. We organized the trip in less than a month. After leaving Aspen on May 5, we were at Base Camp at 11,400 feet on May 11. Camp I at 14,500 feet was set up in three days. Camps II and III (17,000 and 19,500 feet) were established without porters. Baseless snow made all progress laborious and especially tedious in reaching the saddle, the 21,500-foot site for Camp IV. Heavy snowfall during the night produced endless avalanches from all flanks of the peak. We could not wait for improved conditions and in three days were back in lovely Chitral and the airport on June 4.

David Michael