American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, P 20,101 and Others, South Parbati Region, Kulu

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

P 20,101 and. others, South Parbati Region, Kulu. A small English party comprising John Cardy, Geoff Cohen, Dick Isherwood and me visited the South Parbati region. We enjoyed excellent weather and conditions and climbed six peaks, including P 20,101, which had resisted two previous attempts. All the climbs were of an alpine nature and all are believed to be first ascents. The climbs follow: P 19,000 via 1500-foot east face on September 14 by Collister, Isherwood, on September 23 by Cardy (An easy climb on loose rock, though the descent by the north-east ridge was on ice.); P 18,700 via 2400-foot north face on September 15 by Collister, Cohen (The first two-thirds were a typical alpine ice face, 50° at the top and capped by a cornice. Then 60° excellent frozen snow and a rock pinnacle for a summit. Descent was down a rock ridge and ice slopes on the south.); P 20,101 via 3000-foot south face on September 17 and 18 by Collister, Isherwood (We climbed at night 500 feet up an ice couloir on the right of the face before traversing onto the face. From there to the summit ridge, the climb was almost entirely on rock of varying types and difficulty, nothing harder than UIAA IV; complicated route-finding and some stonefall. We bivouacked near the crest of the east ridge, three rope-lengths below the summit. We made 11 abseils on the descent, keeping well clear of the couloir, a death-trap by day.); P 19,100 via 1100-foot north ridge on September 18 by Cardy, Cohen (A fine short mixed climb of III and IV difficulties on rock. Descent down south ridge. Climbed from Advanced Base, a long day since a route had to be found through an icefall and into a snow bowl.); P 19,200 via 1200-foot north face on September 22 by Collister, Cohen (An unpremeditated evening climb from a bivouac in the snow bowl, unroped and by different lines.); P 18,800 by 800-foot northwest ridge on September 23 by Collister, Cohen (An impressive-looking aiguille that gave a disappointing climb.).

Robert Collister, Alpine Club

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