American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, P 20,430, Kanjiroba Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

P 20,430, Kanjiroba Himal. The Kitasato University Expedition was composed of Kazuo Yago, Mitsuhiro Kikuchi, Eiken Moriyama, Hiromi Ichikawa, Morihiro Takechi and me as leader. We flew to Jumla on September 6, leaving there on the 9th. We traveled by Hurikot, Kagmara La, Punphun Khola, Punphun La (16,500 feet) and Junction Pass (between Junction Peak and Wedge Peak; 18,150 feet), Pungmo, Ringmo, Phoksumdo Tal, Phoksumdo Khola, Tso Karpo to Base Camp at 14,425 feet, where we arrived on September 29. We established the following camps: Advanced Base at 16,350 feet on October 6, Camps I at 17,050 feet on October 15, II at 17,975 feet on October 21, III at 18,375 feet on October 25 and IV at 19,075 on October 29. On October 30 Moriyama, Takechi and sirdar Annu Sherpa climbed to the summit, for which we suggest the name “Serku Dholina”. “Serku” means “golden statue” and Dholina is a goddess of the Kanjiroba Himal.

Eiji Kawamura, Kitasato Institute Hospital, Japan

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