Dhaulagiri IV Attempt. We set out from Pokhara on March 14. We knew the route from previous expeditions but the high passes were deep under snow, especially the Jangla-Bhanjang section. After 22 days we got to Mukut and Base Camp at 13,125 feet, north of the Dhaula Himal. On April 12 we established Camp I (16,400 feet) and crossed the very difficult Chorten Ridge to place Camp II at 17,400 feet on April 15. On April 19 we set up Camp III at 19,700 feet. On April 22, after endless snow and steep ice slopes, we placed Camp IV at 22,300 feet. Above rose a very steep 1350-foot face, partly bare, partly ice and often snow-covered. Other than this slope there seemed to be no way to reach Dhaulagiri’s summit ridge. On April 26 we climbed to 23,600 feet and to the knife-sharp, corniced ridge. The view to the south was unbelievable, where it fell nearly vertically for 10,000 feet to a glacial basin. The ridge itself appeared impossible. We descended to Camp IV to try another possibility farther east. After a break in the weather and a couple of rest days, we reached the ridge at 23,800 feet and set up Camp V, but supplies were too short. On May 6 we returned to Camp V, beyond which the ridge seemed possible, but a frightful storm pinned us down for two days and nights. We descended again and in the nick of time, since the tents were soon in tatters and under three feet of new snow. After a six-week effort we were exhausted. We were able to evacuate Camps I, II, and III but could not return to Camps IV and V in the continuing bad weather. Expedition members were Erich Hammerl, Franz Huber, Werner Kopacka, Hans Mikosch, Egon Obojes, Dr. Gerhard Rupar, Erwin Weilguny, Adolf Weissensteiner and I as leader.

Adolf Huber, Österreichische Himalayagesellschaft