American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Manaslu, East Face. The fourth ascent of Manaslu by a fourth route, the east face, was successfully completed by a German expedition led by Dr. Gerhard Schmatz. Other members were René Arnold, Dr. Volkert Gazert, Siegfried Hupfauer, Günter Kämpfe, Frau Hannelore Schmatz, Manfred Sturm and Sebastian Wärgötter. The approach march took them from March 6 to 20 when they reached Base Camp at 12,800 feet on the Manaslu Glacier above the last village, Sama. Camp I was at 16,000 feet. Camp II was established on March 24 on Naike Col at 18,375 feet. The next section, the icefall, where 16 Koreans had met their deaths in 1971 and 1972, was the most difficult and dangerous. Finally Camp III was established at 20,850 feet. They had much bad weather. Not until April 4 could they reach the north col at 22,600 feet, just above Camp IV. More bad weather followed. Finally on April 14 they placed Camp V at 24,775 feet before another storm drove them back. The final assault started from Camp II on April 19. On April 22 Schmatz, Hupfauer and Sherpa Urkien left Camp V and got to the top at two P.M. in miserable weather.

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