American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Pumori

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Pumori. The expedition of the Tohan Club was composed of Tadashi Mochizuki, Tadashi Mizuno, Tadashi Nakamura, Tatsuji Shigeno, Yoshinori Kanoh, Kazuo Yamamoto, Katsuichi Kataoka, Satoshi Kimrua, Kazufumi Nagura, Nabuo Shimosaka, Hiroo Imanishi, Etsuo Watanabe, Maseru Terada and me as leader. On April 7 we began the ascent from Base Camp at 17,400 feet just under the south face and made Camp I the next day at 19,000 feet on the glacier that continues up to the col of the south ridge. After fixing 1150 feet of rope on the ice face, we placed Camp II on the col at 20,350 feet on April 13. Camp III was established on April 25 at 21,400 feet. We used 2000 feet of fixed rope on the difficult rock ridge. Above Camp III we placed 1000 feet of fixed rope to climb from the junction of the extreme right buttress of the three buttresses that face the Khumbu Glacier. On April 30 Shimosaka and Shigeno bivouacked at 23,150 feet and reached the summit (23,422 feet) at 7:33 A.M. on May 1. The summit climbers had bad weather on the descent and had to bivouac but returned to Camp III on May 2 and to Base Camp on May 3. We climbed smoothly because of good weather in the first half and good team work. We used no Sherpas above Base Camp. This was a new route and the third ascent.

Shigeyuki Nakamura, Japanese Alpine Club

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