American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Mount Everest, Japanese Post-Monsoon Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Mount Everest, Japanese Post-Monsoon Expedition. For the first time ever Mount Everest was climbed in the post-monsoon period when the Japanese Hiachi Ishiguro and Yazuo Kato reached the summit on October 26. They were members of a 48-man expedition of the Rock Climbing Club led by Michio Yuasa. Base Camp was established on August 25, Camp I in the icefall on September 4 and Advanced Base in the Western Cwm at 22,000 feet on September 9. During the course of a frightful storm which hit them on October 12, Sherpa Jangbu lost his life in an avalanche between Camps II and III. Two Japanese and three other Sherpas escaped. The attempt on the southwest face failed at about the same height reached by Whillans and Haston in 1971. Camp V at 27,250 feet on the face was established on October 10, but the storm caused withdrawal until October 26. In three days they advanced only another 250 feet and had to give up. Meanwhile Camp III on the South Col route was established at 24,750 feet on October 16 and Camp IV on the South Col not until October 25 because of difficult weather. For the first time without an intermediate camp, on October 26 Ishiguro and Kato set out for the summit. Sherpas Ang Tsering and Lhat Tsering accompanied them very high. The two Japanese reached the summit at 4:30 P.M. They had to bivouac on the descent at about 28,200 feet and suffered frostbite.

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