American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Yalung Kang or Kangchenjunga West

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Yalung Kang or Kangchenjunga West. The Kyoto University Academic Alpine Club Expedition led by Dr. Haruo Higuchi and Elizaburo Nishibori made the successful ascent of this high (27,625-foot) lower summit of Kangchenjunga. The top was reached on May 14 at six P.M. from Camp V at 26,250 feet by Takeo Matsuda and Yutaka Ageta. They bivouacked some 650 feet lower in a snow cave. In the morning Matsuda was in such bad shape that Ageta started down for help alone. They could be watched from Base Camp with binoculars. They saw Matsuda fall, apparently struck by a rock. Only the broken shaft of his ice axe was found.

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