American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Negruni Group, Chachacomani, Tiquimani, Illimani, Cordillera Real

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Negruni Group, Chachacomani, Tiquimani, Illimani, Cordillera Real. The Upper Austria Friends of Nature Expedition left for La Paz on May 24. We were Rudolf Wurzer, leader, Willi Bauer, Manfred Edlinger, Leo Kerschbaumsteiner, Reinhard Streif and I. We first explored the part of the Negruni group east of the Mollo Pass. We made the first ascent of thirteen 5000-meter peaks, which are marked by asterisks (*). We made the following climbs in the Negruni group: Kenasani Apacheta (16,759 feet; 3¾ miles northeast of the pass), P 5080 and another P 5080* (16,667 feet) both traversed from southeast to northwest, all three traversed on June 12 by Wurzer, Kerschbaumsteiner, Bauer; Wila Llojeta (18,205 feet) ski ascent from west on June 13 by whole party; Jalli Huakunka* (17,690 feet; 3½ miles northwest of the pass), P 5300* (17,389; 500 yards southwest) and Jiskha Pata (18,072 feet) on June 15 by Wurzer, Friedhuber; a traverse of the Jankho Laya group from northwest to southeast, P 5330*, P 5420*, Jankho Laya* and P 5350* (17,487, 17,782, 18,192 and 17,553 feet respectively) on June 16 by Wurzer, Friedhuber; a traverse of the ridge 3 miles northeast of Chachacomani from west to east, P 5400*, P 5370*, P 5360* and to the northeast P 5360* (17,717, 17,618, 17,586 and 17,586 feet respectively) on June 16 by Bauer, Edlinger, Kerschbaumsteiner, Streif; P 5480* (17,979 feet;

1 mile north of Jiskha Pata) and P 5260* (17,257 feet: 1? miles northeast of Jiskha Pata) on June 18 by Wurzer, Friedhuber. That same day the others made a new route, the northeast face of Chachacomani (19,902 feet). Bauer and Edlinger continued to Chachacomani Oeste1 (19,837 feet), descending the southwest face. We went from there to the south face of Tiquimani. This difficult 3500-foot face consists of vertical rock and steep ice. Bauer, Edlinger, Streif and I climbed to the summit of Tiquimani (18,209 feet) from June 30 to July 3. It compared to the north face of the Matterhorn. Wurzer and Kerschbaumsteiner climbed the hanging glacier of the southeast face of the unclimbed west peak. They got to the west ridge but not to the summit. Our last objective was Illimani. Bauer, Kerschbaumsteiner and Streif climbed the south face of the north peak from July 11 to 14 while we other three climbed the west face of the slightly lower central peak, both serious ice faces and probably new routes.

Sepp Friedhuber, Naturfreunde Oberösterreich

1 This is presumably the same as the Japanese “Chachacomani Sur”.

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