American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Condoriri and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Ananea. We arrived on August 7 from Juliaca at Putina by truck and proceeded the next day on foot to Base Camp above Rinconada at Laguna de los Muertos at 16,850 feet. On the ninth all 13 of us climbed easy Punta Rinconada (17,225 feet). After an unsuccessful attempt on Ananea directly from Base Camp, we set up Camp I closer to the southwest face. On August 13 Jean-Jacques Evrot, Charles Revilliod, Hélène Chanel and the Swiss Hans Peter Duttle prepared the route through an icefall, using nine ice-screws, and continued to the summit of Ananea (19,095 feet) in a 17-hour day. Meanwhile others were setting up Camp III at 17,400 feet on a rocky spur at the foot of the difficult ice climbing. On August 15 Charles Russignaga, Chantai Regnault, Pierre Chanel and I went up to Camp II. We made the summit on August 16.

Jacques Durville, Club Alpin Français

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