American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Coylloriti and Colquepuncu, Nudo Ayacachi, Cordillera Vilcanota

  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Coylloriti and Colquepuncu, Nudo Ayacachi, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expedition was composed of B. Carry, F. Dreyfus, J-C. Meneau, J-Y. Margantini, J-F. Tripart and me. Tripart soon had to be evacuated to Ocongate and took little part. We had been told that the Cordillera Paucartambo (actually the Nudo Ayacachi—Editor) was little explored.* On the bigger climbs three of us climbed the peak the first day and the other two the next, one group always being in support. We made the following climbs: Surayoc† (5255 meters or 17,241 feet) on the ridge which extends southwest from Coylloriti by the south couloir on August 8 and the southeast ridge on August 9; the traverse of Coylloriti’s southwest ridge over Surayoc, P 5310 (17,422 feet), Coylloriti I (5402 meters or 17,723 feet) and along the north ridge to Chunticollo (5335 meters or 17,502 feet) on Augùst 10 and 11; traverse of Machu Cruz* (called “Hauser” by Spaniards; 5620 meters or 17,257 feet) on the southwest ridge of Coylloriti on August 13; the minor south peak of Colquepuncu I (5400 meters or 17,717 feet) on the Colquepuncu ridge, where we camped on August 15; the traverse of three peaks on the Colquepuncu ridge to the east on August 16 and 17; Kaiko or Colquepuncu I (5470 meters or 17,946 feet) on the same ridge, northwest of Sasahuini by its southeast ridge on August 19 and 20.

Christian Jacquier, Club Alpin Français

* The altitudes given are lower than those the Editor has otherwise seen. Pacco is given elsewhere as 5550 meters and Kello or Quello as 5600 meters.

† The French were mistaken in this. Spanish, Japanese, New Zealanders, Americans, Canadians and other French had proceeded them there. The Spaniards gave many unsuitable names, but John Ricker has done much to clear up the confusion caused by this. Aside from the names “Surayoc” and “Machu Cruz” which the French found were the names used locally, all other names are those which John Ricker checked on and found were used in the region. Although the French believed they had made first ascents, it is unlikely that any of their climbs were new ones.

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