American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Chicon III, Cordillera Urubamba

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Chicon III*, Cordillera Urubamba. This peak is the southernmost one of three forming Chicon, northeast of Cuzco. It is given as 5572 meters (18,281 feet). I climbed it from Urubamba on September 30 with the American Jeff Salz by the prominent snow gully on the south face. We kept left to avoid a large ice cliff, which gave testimony of its destructive power by the amount of debris on the glacier below. We reached the ridge via the narrow, steepening gully with waist-deep typical south-facing snow at its head. There was one short vertical section which required protection near the top. The final ridge to the summit consisted of loose blocks of rock stacked vertically and corniced ice sections.

Michael G. Andrews, New Zealand Alpine Club

* Chicon III lies in the group also known as the Yucay. This particular peak was climbed once before by a different route by Mario Fantin and others in 1958 and named by them “Nevado Alessandro Volta”. The three peaks of this group are known locally as Chicon.—M.G.A.

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