AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Peru, Central Peru, Jirishanca from the Southeast, Cordillera Huayhuash

Jirishanca from the Southeast, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our Tokyo Tsuyukusa Tokokai Expedition was composed of Yoshikazu Okada, Shiro Nakatsuka, Yoshio Sato, Shinichi Yoshiga and me as leader. We left Chiquián with 30 donkeys, 7 arrieros and 3 porters and after four days, on May 28, were at Base Camp on Pucacocha. On May 29 we started up the glacier with loads. In a week we had established Camp I at the foot of the southeast wall. Yoshiga and I reconnoitered and after four days of hard climbing, we went up an ice chimney and at 17,700 feet on June 11 established Camp II. The next 1000 feet were very hard; we had to climb a 25-foot overhang and other difficulties. We had to weather 15 days of storm and only established Camp III at 18,700 feet on July 11. We climbed the dangerous ice and rock wall to the northeast peak, going through big cornices with ice screws. After two bivouacs Nakatsuka, Yoshigawa and I stood on the summit of Jirishanca (20,099 feet) on July 16 at 7:35 A.M.

Masayuki Shinohara, Tokyo Tsuyukusa Tokokai