American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Tocllaraju Ishinca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Tocllaraju, Ishinca. Our expedition climbed Tocllaraju after having failed on Ranrapalca. Glacial conditions were very different from those found by the Swiss in 1963, on which we had based our plans. We found on Ranrapalca a ridge too thin to support the weight of a climber, barrier séracs and a total absence of snow on the ice for traversing the face. On August 8 Mlle Renée Turc, Bernard Marcillat, Gérard Maillard and I climbed Ishinca (18,143 feet) by its south ridge after our last attempt on Ranrapalca, during which Maillard fell into a crevasse when an important snow bridge collapsed. On August 12 we all climbed Tocllaraju (19,790 feet) by its north ridge in 14 hours from Camp I at 16,725 feet at Pacliashcocha. On August 14 Mlle Turc and Marcillat climbed Urus Este (17,914 feet).

J. Coffin, Club Alpin Français

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