South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huantsán, Attempt on East Ridge

Publication Year: 1974.

Huantsán, Attempt on East Ridge. An expedition led by J.P. Frésa- fond attempted the east ridge of Huantsán. Aside from the leader we were M. and M. Blassier, Y. Buttin, D. Ducoin, J. Erard, H. Frésafond, M.F. Gay, C. Jager, M. Pichot, U. Vollgartner and I. The weather was very poor on the eastern slope of the range. Every day we saw clouds rise from the Amazon region, bringing rain, snow or clouds, making route-finding difficult and preventing the ice from freezing. On August 4 we established Base Camp at 14,750 feet, a day above Chavín. Camp I was placed the next day at 16,400 feet and Camp II on August 8 at 17,400 feet at the beginning of the first difficulties. From the 8th to the 18th we placed fixed ropes. It was hard going, especially on ice. On August 18 we established Camp III at 19,000 feet, above the worst difficulties. On the 19th, making use of an apparent clearing, we made a summit attempt, but bad weather turned us back at 19,700 feet. We hoped to try later, but on the 20th it started to snow and we evacuated the camps, leaving Base Camp on the 22nd deep under snow.

Bernard Amy, Club Alpin Français