American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Peaks above Quebrada Honda

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Peaks above Quebrada Honda. After two unsuccessful attempts on Tocllaraju, we made several ascents of Chinchey (20,413 feet) via the west face: Howard Bussey, Gary Poush, Gary Wilson on July 15, Raymond Jacquot, Bill Lindberg on July 18, Carlos Plummer, Doug Beyer on July 21, Bob Frisby and Gary Long on July 24. On July 22 Lindberg and I, and on August 4 Frisby, Plummer, Wilson and I climbed P 5300 (17,389 feet) in the Copap group. On July 24 Bussey and Poush made a new route, a rock climb up the west buttress, on Pacarish (17,310 feet), which is at the north end of the Copap plateau. Wilson and Beyer ascended Chaco (17,454 feet) on July 24, a climb repeated on August 2 by Poush, Lindberg, my wife Nancy and me. Lindberg and I made what appears to be the first ascent of P 5205 (17,077 feet) at the northwest corner of the Copap plateau. From camp on the Copap plateau on July 30 Lindberg and Poush climbed the higher (north) peak of Perlilla (18,330 feet), which had been climbed by the Japanese* on July 14, 1966. (A.A.J., 1967, 15:2, p. 391.) On August 1 Beyer and Bussey made the second ascent of Portachuelo (17,815 feet) by its north ridge. An attempt on Yanatsilca Norte failed 250 feet below the top. with an avalanche and a fall into a crevasse. A final attempt on Tocllaraju by Beyer and Poush on August 4 ended 1000 feet below the summit because of unstable snow.

Raymond Jacquot

* It is not certain that the Japanese climbed the north peak.

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