American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chinchey and Jatunmontepuncu

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Chinchey and Jatunmontepuncu. Our expedition from China Lake, California Mountain Rescue Group climbed from the Quebrada Quil- cayhuanca. From our Base Camp at 14,665 feet, stock trails led up and north into the side canyon, Quebrada Yanapaccha, which took us onto the glacier at 16,700 feet and up to the Chinchey-Pucaranra col at 18,000 feet. The only difficulty was on the upper 650 feet, where the glacier is moderately steep and crevassed. Don Peterson, Dennis Burge, Russ Huse and I climbed Chinchey (20,413 feet) on June 14 from the col on the west face to the notch between the north and south peaks. Above the upper bergschrund there were 450 feet, averaging 50°. Peterson and I reached the summit of Jatunmontepuncu (17,806 feet) on July 16 after a route-finding trip by Charles Ringrose, Bob Westbrook and Donato Solano Flores. We climbed the west ridge from the west notch. The only snow climbing was 600 feet above the notch.

Carl Heller, Unaffiliated

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