American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Cancaracá Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Cancaracá Group. Nine members of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club, eight Dutch and one Peruvian, Dr. Dolf Noordijk, Fons Driessen, Daniel Paz y Geuze, Robbert and Hannie Vermeer, Jan and Anna van Royen, my wife Liesbeth and I, made a very interesting round trek through the Quebradas Honda, Illauro, Cancaracá and Ulta. We crossed the Port- achuelo from the Quebrada Honda and Shillapunta (given as “Pasaje de Ulta” in Dr. Kinzls map). Both are about 16,000 feet. The trail on the latter was destroyed over long stretches by the 1970 earthquake and we therefore crossed the pass without help of animals. We established two base camps. The first was on Yanacocha, the point of departure for the Copap group. The attempt on Perlilla (18,330 feet) by its northeast ridge failed at about 17,250 feet for lack of time (we had only one high camp but needed two) and anticipated severe technical difficulties on ice and rock on the ridge. A second base camp was established in the little-known Quebrada Huichajanca. A reconnaissance of Copa’s north slope was not followed by a real attempt because of

bad weather. There also seemed to be severe threats of sérac avalanches. Instead, we established camp at 16,000 feet on the north of the valley, high above some beautiful lakes. On consecutive days, June 23 & 24, we made two first ascents. Noordijk, Robbert Vermeer, both van Royens, Emilio Angeles and I climbed P 5310 (17,422 feet) over its glacier- covered south side. Jan van Royen and Driessen climbed P 5260 (17,257 feet*) via the lower southwest ridge, diagonally across the west face to finish up the steep upper northwest ridge.

Frank H. Schreve

* The topography of this particular region seems to be somewhat different from what appears on the Austrian map, where in fact dotted contour lines seem to indicate that the mappers were not sure of all details. Schreve. states that P 5310 was definitely lower than P 5260. The location of the peaks climbed is however very clearly shown on the map.

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