American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Ulta, Alpamayo Norte, Pucaraju and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Ulta, Alpamayo Norte, Pucaraju and Other Peaks. The South African Andean Expedition arrived in the Cordillera Blanca in June and established itself in the Quebrada Ulta under Chopicalqui near the New Zealanders led by McIlwraith. Roger Fuggle, Tony Dick and I first climbed Nevado Ulta (19,275 feet) via the “standard” route before Fuggle and Dick joined the New Zealanders on the southeast ridge of Chopicalqui (20,998 feet). The New Zealanders’ stories of the east ridge of this peak made us change our minds about trying it. Conditions were very bad, deep soft snow covering what normally are rock routes. However Fuggle and Dick did climb the north peak of Alpamayo and Artesonraju before failing on the north ridge of Huascarán Norte (French route of 1966). I joined the New Zealander Maurice Conway and climbed a new route, the northwest ridge of Pucaraju (17,540 feet).

Gregory Moseley, South African Alpine Club

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