South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Quitaraju

Publication Year: 1974.

Quitaraju. Our expedition was made up of Bart Sloof, Rudolf Trouw, Bert Maas, Louis Berger, Jan Warnaars and me. From Base Camp in the Quebrada Santa Cruz, we had two objectives: Alpamayo via the north ridge and Quitaraju. We divided into two groups, one trying to find a route from the Quebrada Santa Cruz via the 17,000-foot col at the end of the east ridge of Alpamayo to reach the north ridge. It proved to be easily attainable. The other group reconnoitered the col west of Quitaraju but found it would involve too great risks to reach the plateau below Quitaraju’s north face. We then decided on the col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju and camped at 15,750 feet near the end of the glacier. Without many problems we crossed the pass at 18,375 feet and pitched Camp II on the plateau at 18,000 feet. After a day of reconnaissance, on June 17 we attained the west ridge and the entire group with the Peruvian Donato Solano reached Quitaraju’s summit. Two days later some of us were camped with four days’ food near the north ridge of Alpamayo, but a change in weather forced us to give up our plans.

Peter van Lookern Campagne, Koninklijke Nederlandse Alpen Vereniging