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South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Norte

Huandoy Norte. Scipio Merler led a party of five, including David Jones, Fred Douglas, Neil Humphrey and me, on an ascent of Huandoy Norte from the east side. Approaching from the Quebrada Llanganuco, we set up Base Camp at 14,600 feet. Douglas, Humphrey, Merler and I first did a quick ascent of Pisco. Camp I for Huandoy was at 16,600 feet under the east peak. Because of the broken nature of the glacier, we decided to cross it high under the steep faces and reach the icefall guarding the col between the north and south peaks. Camp II at 17,400 feet was as close to the icefall as possible. Snowfall bogged us down for three days and made the rest of the climb even more tiring. As soon as the weather seemed to improve, we crossed the icefall by a short rock section, a chute and two intersecting ramps. Camp III was set in the col between the north and south peaks at 18,300 feet. From there on June 23 we had a long slog through deep snow and around spectacular crevasses to the col between the west and north summits. From the col to the north summit (20,981 feet) we were buffeted by howling gusts of snow, wind and cloud.

Judy Cook, Alpine Club of Canada